Another summer, another family trip
once more by train: from Helsinki by ferry to Tallinn and then to Vilnius and back by train, with stays in Tallinn, Vilna and Riga. Last year our family went to London and back by train, we passed through Hamburg, Amsterdam, London, Bruxelles and Berlin. I started to write a blog post about the trip, but it ended up being overwhelming – so much material, so many stories. Now, this year I wanted to do this differently: I took notes, imagine that. Sitting in the train can be boring at times, granted, but I took it as a chance to jot down thoughts and impressions from the trip as we chugged along. I used Notes on my iPhone, a very handy tool as it automatically syncs to all my Apple devices. So, now back home I can pull up the notes and work with them and don’t have to try and remember what happened where. At the same time all the images I took (just with my iPhone) serve as memory refresher too – the images appear on a map in Adobe’s Lightroom classic due to the location data, very very convenient.
FYI. I decided to use OpenAI’s ChatGPT to help me plan and write this blog post. So, the text after this intro paragraph is co-written with ChatGPT (4o). I gave it my notes and instructed it to write a sample blog post emulating my style, as by now, it knows me rather well. I wasn’t happy with the outcome so instead I had it create topics and propose an alternate structure for the blog post. As my posts usually are quite heavy on the visual side, I wanted to see how Thinglink as a platform would serve and perform. It turns out to be a very good option in this case, with the help of tags you create a “page” where a lot of information is presented without the need to endlessly scroll and look for a specific bit.
However, after the embedded Thinglink you’ll find a more traditional blog post version of this trip – and the proper image and video galleries. As always, my posts are not optimised for mobile (!) as I believe images need to be looked at from large screens, and some videos have sound.
Enjoy!
A map, a rhythm, a slow return
The Baltics by Train is a slow-travel family story unfolding across the Baltic region – four of us, trains and trams, grey skies and bursts of light. From Helsinki to Tallinn by sea, then southward by rail through Latvia into Lithuania, and looping back again. Unlike last year’s sprawling London trip, this one is more focused, more reflective. Instead of letting the moments vanish into memory, I recorded them – on trains, in cafés, under drizzle – jotted impressions, collected photos.
This time, the story is told as an interactive map experience using Thinglink – each city is marked with a tag that opens into short texts, reflections, and practical notes. It’s a non-linear way to explore the journey – not by scrolling, but by navigating the geography itself. The result is not just a blog post but a layered travel journal mapped onto a living landscape.
Cities visited: Tallinn, Vilnius, Riga (in this order!). So we first rode the train from Tallinn to Vilnius (11 hours), then on our way back we stopped in Riga. Themes recurring: vegan food, morning runs, city strolls, and the quiet humanity of fellow travellers. The journey lives here now – as a map you can explore, and as a story you can scroll.
The Baltics by Train
If you’ve just explored the interactive map above – great. This post is the slower, more scenic version: a stitched-together travel journal from our summer journey as a family of four, travelling by ferry and train across Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania.
Think of this not as a guide, but as a story made from light, sound, food, and movement – and trains of course. There’s a little planning advice buried in here, yes, but mostly: it’s a mood, a rhythm, and a series of shifting perspectives.
Let’s begin in Tallinn, but before we do, just a quick overview of the Lodging, Eating and Travels with tips and prices.
- Tallinn 1 night, 60 euros Juhkentali 26 Our apartment at was rather modest but budget-friendly. Utensils weren’t clean, and the night was loud, someone had a party in the house. Good enough for a quick stop, but not ideal.
- Vilnius 3 nights, 374 euros City Dawn Gate Apartment,Bazilijonų g. 3A A modern apartment on the top floor of a beautifully refurbished old stone building. Clean, spacious, and full of light—a calm base after a long travel day. Short walk from the station, even with luggage.
- Riga 2 nights, 260 euros (+ city tax) Palasta iela 9 Very plain two-room apartment with high ceilings, basic kitchen, and a bath. Not much charm, but it worked. Right next to one of the stages of the Baltica 2025 folklore festival, which meant singing and music until late. Payment in cash only.
- Vapiano (Solaris) in Tallinn, is a stylish omnivore spot with a few clearly marked vegan options, located in a spacious multi-level setting inside the Solaris shopping centre. Ordering is done via QR code, and food is picked up from counters—efficient but impersonal. I had the Pasta Cream No Pollo with courgette noodles, which was fresh and pleasantly al dente. A nice touch: fresh basil plants are available to pick and garnish your dish. Prices felt a bit high given the self-service format, but the quality and setting help balance it out.
- AgniFood in Vilnius offers a peaceful, ashram-inspired setting with thoughtful Eastern-style decor and a calm, slow-paced atmosphere. The main dish was underseasoned and modest in portion, but the Green Jasmine Tea complemented it nicely. The highlight was the exceptional Laddu dessert—rich and satisfying. Service was respectful but reserved, and no alcohol is served. Best suited for mindful dining rather than bold culinary experiences.
- Kira in Vilnius is a cosy vegan café known for its relaxed atmosphere, friendly service, and delicious cakes—many of which are raw-vegan. We sat outside on a quiet street and enjoyed a sunny afternoon with refreshing iced coffee and exceptional desserts. My morkų tortas (carrot cake) was moist, well-balanced, and priced at €4.50. The quality of all the cakes we tried was consistently high, showing great care in preparation. It’s a peaceful and reliable spot for a plant-based treat in the city centre.
- RoseHip in Vilnius the dinner was a real treat—delicious vegan food, friendly service, and a sunny terrace made for a perfect evening. I had the Beyond Meat Mexican burger with sweet potato fries, which paired beautifully with a local tap lager. The flavours were bold and well-balanced, with fresh toppings and just the right amount of spice. The terrace was shaded and pleasant despite being next to a busy street. Indoors, the bistro has a modern and stylish vibe.
- Wok to Walk in Riga is a great casual spot for a quick and affordable Asian-style meal with solid vegan options. You can choose from a set menu or build your own wok by selecting a base, proteins or veggies, and sauce. I had udon noodles with tofu, vegetables, and spicy sauce — fresh, tasty, and fast. The service was efficient, and we enjoyed sitting inside by the open window to the street. A reliable choice for customisable vegan comfort food in the city.
- Ferry Helsinki to Tallinn (Viking) + Tallinn - Helsinki (Tallink) 202 euros Tickets via ferryscanner.com
- Train Tallinn - Vilnius 11h, 156 euros (change in Valga) Vilnius - Riga 4h, 50 euros Riga - Tallinn 7h, 122 euros Tickets via ltglink.lt/en
- Uber Tallinn Lodging to train station, 3 euros Helsinki Port - home, 23 euros
We stepped off the Viking XPRS in the early afternoon – the crossing from Helsinki was smooth, uneventful, and exactly what it needed to be. We were glad we’d boarded early enough to grab one of the window-side table seats – otherwise, you risk wandering around with luggage for two hours looking for a spot. The port in Tallinn was easy to navigate, and within minutes we were on a tram, headed to our apartment on Juhkentali. The apartment itself was… fine. Budget-friendly (€60), modest, and a bit scuffed around the edges. The kitchen utensils weren’t clean, and someone somewhere in the building had a party that lasted well into the night. It worked for one night, but just barely. Dinner was at Vapiano in Solaris, a warm and familiar fallback as the skies began to drizzle. Afterwards, we stocked up on supplies for the next day’s 11-hour train ride. The Delice Food Market in the basement of the same building turned out to be excellent – clean, spacious, and full of vegan options. The Old Town was damp and quiet when we walked through it. Slick cobblestones, spires blurred by mist, and hardly any tourists in sight. That wet light – you know the one – turned the streets into mirrors. Next morning, the rain came harder. I had planned a run, but stayed in instead and did a short workout in the apartment. We ordered an Uber to the station – quick, efficient, €3. Easy exit.
Tallinn to Vilnius – 11 Hours by Train
We boarded the 10:02 train from Tallinn on a grey, drizzly morning, with our bags full of snacks and vegan suppliesfrom the Solaris Delice market the night before. Technically, our tickets included assigned seats – but only from Valga to Vilnius. From Tallinn to Valga, we were free to choose our spots. We grabbed a window-side table early on, which turned out to be a good move – the train slowly filled up along the way.
The train rolled steadily through southern Estonia, stopping at what felt like every single station along the way – more like a local train than an intercity connection. Pine forests, fields, low houses, and small towns came and went in an unhurried rhythm. Some stretches felt slow – especially before Tartu, where the train dropped to about 40 km/h – but it suited the day.
We passed the time with books, snacks, naps, and a long session of “Would You Rather?”, which helped mark the hours without staring at our phones, too much.
We reached Valga around 13:49, where we had a 20-minute transfer window. Just enough time to grab coffee and a double chocolate from the Lavazza machine just behind the station.
The connecting train to Vilnius was composed of three wagons, one restroom, and one of the wagons was pink! As it so happened a chatty Finn was sitting across the table, drinking rosé straight from the bottle and asking a lot of questions which lead to deep philosophical discussions on life, travel, and drinking habits. He disembarked in Riga, leaving a strange kind of quiet behind.
After Riga, the landscape shifted again – more built-up, more varied. We arrived in Vilnius just after 21:00, stretched, tired, and quietly glad to be done with the day’s journey.
Vilnius
A short walk from the station led us to the top floor of an old stone building, freshly renovated into a surprisingly spacious and modern apartment. After the rough edges of our Tallinn stay, this one felt like a reward. We unpacked, and for a short stroll through old downtown to shake off the long travel day.
The next morning, I went for a run. The rain had returned – light at first, then heavier – but the streets were calm. People greeted me as I passed, and the air had that clean, post-rain clarity. Wet cobblestones, quiet parks, and the occasional statue blurred by mist. In the afternoon we took the funicular up to the city’s best-known lookout – a moment of quiet altitude. The view stretched in every direction, a mix of old rooftops and green hills.
Groceries were easy to find – there was a well-stocked supermarket just down the street. We bought breakfast supplies and settled into a relaxed rhythm: long mornings, slow coffee, and time to read or play.
Our son went off for a day trip to see a friend on the countryside, and the rest of us went off to explore some more of the city, especially Už – the self-declared republic tucked within the city. It’s part bohemian, part satire, and part sincere – a small enclave of murals, manifestos, and riverside paths where everything feels just slightly sideways. We crossed a small stream into its loosely defined borders, read some of the ‘constitution’ on metal plaques, and wandered past quirky sculptures and layered graffiti. We crossed a small stream, ate lunch by the water. Secondhand shops, narrow alleyways, and the kind of easy detours you only take when you have nowhere urgent to be. We had lunch at Kiras, a calm vegan spot, then stopped by Humana (a second-hand clothes shop).
In the evening, we had dinner outdoors under warm light. The place – RoseHip – was quiet and welcoming. We had vegan burgers and poke bowls, served quickly and generously. The food was very good, exactly what we needed after a full day on foot. On the walk home, we passed through a park where a live band was playing under the trees – brass, swing, something vintage. People stood still and listened. No one rushed. It was one of those moments that just lands right.
I enjoyed Vilnius very much.
Vilnius to Riga – A Shorter Hop
The train from Vilnius to Riga was a shorter, more direct leg – departing at 6:45, still early enough to feel like the city hadn’t quite woken up. Three wagons again, same familiar setup. Just one restroom, and a slow roll through familiar countryside – pine trees, scattered villages, grain fields under grey skies.
We reached Riga around 11:00, stepping out into wind and under grey skies. First priority: finding an ATM – the apartment required cash payment.
Riga
On the way to the old town where our next apartment was, we stumbled upon Galerija Centrs – a shopping centre with a café and a large Rimi grocery store. With some time to spare before we could check in at 14:00, we browsed the aisles and stocked up on essentials. It was a practical and unhurried pause between transit and settling in.
The flat itself was fine: high ceilings, two plain rooms, nothing memorable, but we were in the city centre and right next to one of the Baltica 2025 folklore festival stages. In the evenings, the sound of traditional music drifted through the windows — charming at first, slightly less so by the third encore.
The next morning I went for a run across the Daugava, over Vansu and Akmens bridges, circling through Bastejkalna Park and up to the Freedom Monument. The rain started light and turned heavy. I tried to pick up bread from a bakery on the way back, but in Riga, they open late — I came back soaked and empty-handed.
After breakfast, we set off for the central market halls, which are housed in massive former Zeppelin hangars. We picked up local strawberries, wandered through fish stalls and fruit pyramids, and watched the pace of the city from the edge. Later, without much of a plan, we hopped onto a rattling old tram and rode it to the northern end of the city — 40 minutes of wooden benches and creaking steel — then turned around and came back.
That afternoon we climbed the church tower (€9) for a broad view over rooftops and cranes. We skipped the second tower (€15 felt too much for more of the same). Dinner was at Wok to Walk — a casual Asian stir-fry spot with good vegan options and fast service. Not special, but reliable.
Riga was busy, noticeably more so than Vilnius. Tourists everywhere. Plenty of Finns, too — and a few wandering bachelor parties. At times it felt like the city was performing a version of itself, louder and brighter than necessary. But behind the noise were shaded parks, quiet riverbanks, and corners that didn’t care who was watching.
Riga to Tallinn – Heading Home
Our final leg: Riga to Tallinn. We boarded the morning train at 10:20, ready for one last long ride north. As before, the train stopped at nearly every small station along the way — a local rhythm that had become familiar. The 20-minute stop in Valga felt like a checkpoint, a pause to stretch and sip coffee from the ever-reliable Lavazza machine.
After crossing the Estonian border, the landscape gradually softened — flatter, greener, a quiet return. We reached Tallinn by 17:20, with just one hour to get from Balti Jaam station to the port. Thankfully, we had checked in online for the Viking XPRS, so we could skip the queues and walk confidently to the terminal.
That last walk through the city felt good. The air was fresh, the pace unhurried. After days of sitting, this small stretch of movement closed the loop nicely. The ferry departed on time, and just like that, we were sailing home.
This trip ended up being one of the most rewarding we’ve done. I genuinely loved every stop along the way – Riga charmed us with its energy, but it was Vilnius that truly stayed with me. I’d never been there before, and it surprised me with its calm, its character, and its sense of space. Tallinn, familiar as it was, served as the perfect starting point. Travelling by train let the journey breathe — you feel the distance, the slow unfolding of landscapes. I can wholeheartedly recommend this route. It reminded me that holidays aren’t just about where you’re going — but how you get there.